Introduction
The third limited edition watch by TAG Heuer and Hodinkee has brought us back the never-forgotten Seafarer. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Seafarer x Hodinkee holds the same spirit of previous collaboration models (i.e., Skipper and Dato) and proves the US watch media’s vision to take on the Swiss brand’s most enduring and distinctive timepieces. This third iteration also stands as the most ambitious from a technical perspective, debuting the top complicated chronograph in the latest, much-appreciated 2023 Carrera Glassbox collection.
The sources of inspiration
A brief review of Heuer’s historical references not only helps us identify where the new Chrono Seafarer x Hodinkee belongs but also connects us to the historic steps to its execution. To any watch newbie, let me quickly remind you that the tide measurements counter first appeared in the Abercrombie & Fitch branded Solunar and was paired with the regatta chrono thereafter.
The Abercrombie & Fitch chronograph surfaced in 1950 with reference 346 and evolved into the four-digit reference 2444, first, and 2446 with an Autavia case, i.e., with a screw-down case back. The contemporary iteration pays homage to the 2446C by applying the signature three-counter scheme to the largest Carrera Glassbox available.
Case and movement
That said, the chrono measurements are slightly different, as you would expect on timepieces whose mechanisms are so different. The original Valjoux 72 is now replaced by the state-of-the-art TH 20-13 self-winding chronograph with a gearing for measuring the tides and eighty hours of power reserve. The continuous seconds counter sits at six o’clock.
A “Seafarer” lettering stands out on the upper side of the running seconds counter. At the same time, the two in-line registers and their three-tone colour combination pleasantly contrast the opaline black dial. The outer dial’s layout, with a concave-to-convex design, provides unusual yet attractive depth.
However, the watch is not small by any means. The 42 mm case has a 14.4 mm thickness and a 48.6 mm lug-to-lug gap. A fabric-looking rubber strap, designed for both style and comfort, with a matching folding clasp and micro-adjustment mechanism, helps the wearer tighten the watch to the wrist. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Seafarer x Hodinkee is waterproof up to 100 meters, and this strap option is the smartest we might hope for. It is perfect during the summer holidays.
Measuring the tides
We extensively discussed this complication while reviewing the Riviera Mareographe as in our comprehensive Baume & Mercier 2024 novelties video review. It is an attractive yet not very useful complication since you always need a tide table for your chosen location. The ‘tide’ button, when pressed, triggers the tide-measurement disc, helping you associate it with the highest tide (there are two low and two high tides per day in a cycle that lasts 24.5 hours).
The counter displays high and low tides at a glance while not allowing height measurements. Please refer to a modern electronic device to get additional information. Back then, such a device was the exclusive portable tool if you had to plan a fishing or hunting campaign, for instance.
Final thoughts
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Seafarer x Hodinkee will come in 968 examples and retail for $7,950. It is €7,300 at current exchange rate if you are going to get one via the Hodinkee shop (VAT and customs clearance costs not included). However, a large part of the lot is available across boutiques and selected retailers worldwide, and this will help you buy yours anywhere else.
Here is the most fascinating Carrera Glassbox model and a faithful reference 2447 contemporary counterpart. It adds details, finishes, and DNA you hardly find in the standard Glassbox collection. When matching all this to the specs sheet and the execution, and a market scenario where 10k is the base price to access a luxury watch, this TAG’s sticker price is impressive.
